Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Ireland Castles!

Where Croatia had cats, Ireland has castles and cathedrals, most crumbling. And since we covered a lot of ground, we saw a lot of castles (for the record, I love crumbling castles). Here are a few:




Rock of Dunamase, County Laois





Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary





Hore Abbey, County Tipperary





Ross Castle, County Kerry





Church and Cemetery near Doolin, name unknown, County Clare





Doonagore Castle, County Clare





Ballynahinch Castle, County Galway (we stayed a night here!)
-Ian

Sunday, August 26, 2012

The Irish Countryside Inspires Poetry


Ian drives on the left
My body in flight-flight mode
As we pass more sheep

We just ran the light
The windshield wipers swishing
We can't make them stop

No street signs in sight
No, I don't know where we are
We don't have a map

But here's a castle
And some verdant countryside
Let's take a picture

We'll find the next town
Settle in with a Guinness
And eat at a pub

Irish road trips are
Adventurous but would be
easier with gps




















-Amy

Location:Ireland

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Bagovich

We've noticed that many Croatian words end in "ovich" which technically means "son of." So for example Ivanovich translates to "son of John", much like the common last name Johnson back in the states. Karlovich is "son of Karl" (Carlson in English). You get the idea.

However one word, Bagovich, has no such translation. Bagovich literally translates to "Bag bitch" and more loosely/contextually translates to "Ian". Take this random but chronological sampling of trip pictures:









Yes, the need to always have enough water, sunscreen, and Game of Thrones books at all times necessitates an equally strong individual to pack it, lug it, and make sure it's always available for the needs of Amy. Thus, Bagovich.

A cautionary note to this tale, though: renting a car in Ireland threatens extinction for Bagovich, as there are fears his chivalrous services will not be needed. Like the Walkman and pagers, he may become a mere footnote to history.

Fear not, Bagovich, your legend will live on through the blog...blogovich?

-Ian
Well, it was about time for a food post. Trying new food is one thing we love best about traveling, though I don't have anything striking to report on Dalmation cuisine.

We've eaten gelato just about every day,




ordered some kind of pastry for breakfast,




and had freshly squeezed orange juice with about every meal too.

Last night we mistakenly ordered a Dalmation sample plate for two, but most of it was seafood and Ian had to use his napkin to wipe the sardine juice off the herbed cheese and olives.

We have been lucky to find amazing vegetarian restaurants in both Split and Dubrovnik and went a little overboard ordering today after last night's tuna fishy platter:



Mostly, I think we've just enjoyed the fresh produce; everything here seems to be prepared using local food grown just a vine away.

Onto Irish cuisine next!


Location:Dinner in Dalmatia

Monday, August 20, 2012

Montenegro by Van

What do Montenegro and Connecticut have in common? Based on my research, only two things. First, they're roughly the same size. Second, they both have cats. Other than that, they couldn't be more different. But that should give you a reference point. Montenegro is small. Being small has never prevented Eurostates from calling themselves countries (see Monaco, the Vatican, Andorra, Lichtenstein...) and Montenegro is no exception. Also like many small European countries, Montenegro has seen its fair share of strife throughout its history. It's on the Adriatic Sea, bordered by Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, and Albania, mostly parts of what was formerly Yugoslavia:


So for most of the 19th/20th centuries, Montenegro was handed around depending on who won what war. Then 20 years ago it was involved in some pretty ugly skirmishes when Yugoslavia broke up. Finally, in 2006, it became its own country. At that point the Russians took over (one Croatian newspaper found that Russians own 40% of the land in Montenegro.)

Ok, enough history/geography/wikipedia. We skirted the coast in a mini-van, seeing Kotor Bay, the town of Kotor, and the historic (now Russian resort) town of Budva. Kotor was by far the most impressive.

The busride alone had some great vistas and gave us a few chances to hop out and snap some pics:



But the town at the tip of the bay, Kotor, is amazing. It's tucked up against fjord-like mountains that shoot up from the bay:


And of course it has a charming little walled-in old town with winding streets and historic churches:





But as if the steep imposing mountains didn't provide enough protection, centuries ago city dwellers built a fort, walls, and towers up the cliffs. Climbing them (in 100-degree weather) was probably only marginally easier than building them, but the views were worth it:











And of course, even after building all these fortresses, they couldn't keep out the cats!







I'm on a Boat

Last quick post for the night...
Ian and I rented a boat today, and I must say, he can drive a boat much better than a scooter (re: Thailand 2010 pot hole/rain incident). We spent about 6 hours on the water today and just hopped from island to island. Bummer not to have snorkel gear, but a great trip all the same.







Local Agriculture

As mentioned in previous post, this is delicious:












Besides stealing local producer from the vine (just one or 2 samples), we also tried some vino from a local winery today, made from a grape called grk.




That was not free, but a tasting was 20 kuna, or about $4 for us both. Not bad, not bad at all.


-Amy

Utopia: Where Vineyard Meets Ocean

After 3 great days in Dubrovnik (and a day trip to Montenegro), Ian and I are now blogging from our balcony in Lumbarda town, Korcula Island, Croatia.
After a 4 hour early morning ferry and a short bus trip to Lumbarda, we were rather sweaty and a bit tired and hungry. Good thing we ended up here; this is what we were immediately offered:




two shots of homemade whiskey, some water, some more whiskey, a cheese plate, and some house made wine.
We sat and talked to our hosts for over an hour, asked questions about island life, and got settled in. And we like it here. In fact, we like it here so much that we decided to cancel the rest of our Croatian travels and stay here until we fly to Ireland.
Why would anyone want to leave this?








Beautiful little old town, stunning beaches, and the best part? All this along with fig trees, lime trees, olive groves, vineyards, blackberry bushes, and more. This place is amazing and we will probably get kicked out of here for stealing grapes before we will leave willingly.


-Amy

Friday, August 17, 2012

Old Town Dubrovnik

Old Town is one of those places you can't take too many pictures of. Once you turn the corner, there's a new and different view of old stone pathways careening up steep stairs or around another hidden nook. There are numerous outdoor restaurants and cafes (warning: tourist traps) and fun little shops. The best find today was a new pair of shorty euro-shorts for Ian. More blog posts on that later. For now, I'll try not to overload the old town pics.

More Croatian Cats

By popular demand, another cat-related post! Last night we took the cable car up Mount Srd, overlooking Dubrovnik, to watch the sunset (more on that later in a blog post by Amy). The view was incredible, but I think of everybody the most impressed was this little guy:


In case you're confused about what's going on here, I'm with you. Technically, I don't even think that's a Croatian cat. But here's a closeup to help a bit:


Bottom line - this guy's getting way more than he bargained for. Comments welcome, but I'll take a first crack on what's going through his feline head: "I knew something crazy would happen if I downed all that catnip."
-Ian

Location:Kotorska ulica,,Croatia

More Croatian Cats

By popular demand, another cat-related post! Last night we took the cable car up Mount Srd, overlooking Dubrovnik, to watch the sunset (more on that later in a blog post by Amy). The view was incredible, but I think of everybody the most impressed was this little guy:


In case you're confused about what's going on here, I'm with you. Technically, I don't even think that's a Croatian cat. But here's a closeup to help a bit:


Bottom line - this guy's getting way more than he bargained for. Comments welcome, but I'll take a first crack on what's going through his feline head: "I knew something crazy would happen if I downed all that catnip."
-Ian

Location:Kotorska ulica,,Croatia

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Croatian Cats!

Ok, so Amy called dibs on the first blog post of our pics which leaves me to blog about more mundane matters: cats! Just like in Rome or Athens, there are a ton of stray cats running around Dubrovnik. And just like in Brooklyn, we love them!




These strays outside our villa kind of look like our cat, Singha. But they're way more brave - check out this cat jumping down a wall that's about 7 feet high:




Action shot! And just so you know there's more to Dubrovnik than cats, here's a shot of the view from our balcony:




Many more pics (and hopefully cats) to come.
-Ian

Location:Vetranićeva ulica,,Croatia