You don't need a guidebook to tell that Bangkok is an old city. From the towering temples to the ancient infrastructure to the old ladies selling circumspect foods on the sidewalks, the Thai capital has an ancient feel to it that permeates mostly everything, such that you could close your eyes and open them in the 1560s, 1860s, or 1960s. Or, of course, 2010. Here, for example, is some kind of an electrical box/transformer sitting about ten feet above our heads on a sidewalk:
Weird. Predictably, traffic is horrible. The surprisingly modern subway (2004) and monorail (2009) only cover small parts of the city, with plans to expand delayed indefinitely. Tuk tuks are a cheap touristy way to get around and really get a feel for the city. And by "get a feel for the city", I mean get a view of the wheels of the bus in the next lane, which are about all a tourist taller than 4 foot 8 can see during the trip. It does, however, provide a perfect angle for breathing in the bus exhaust pipe belching fumes into your face. Tourists still seem to use them, though, and we made the best of our Bangkok tuk tuks, though we weren't moving most of the time.
Conversely, here's one of the nicer streets we happened across in Bangkok.
Anyway, enter the Chao Phraya River, the perfect public transport mode for any century! All you need is something that will float and a way to get it going. (This guy obviously doesn't get it - the boat goes IN the water!)
All along the river, different boats, each about 80 feet long, pull up to floating piers every few minutes and people stream on and off with the same precision as would be expected at Times Square or Grand Central (probably a bit more politeness though). No lights, no brakes, no rails, no "stand clear of the closing doors please." Just a weathered boat driver in the front and a kid in the back. The boat pulls up to the dock and when it gets even, the kid puts a whistle to his lips and blows a certain pitch. Then the driver backs the boat up and the kid jumps off, ropes the boat to the dock, and whistles a different pitch. The driver stops reversing, and passengers file on and off. It all takes about 15 seconds. There is no question that it would take me hours. Here's the number 8-boat pulling up to Tha Tien "station." Mind the gap!
And let's say you don't want to take a long trip down the river, but just want to head across the river to an old temple. Just hop on the wat-ferry of course!
While you're riding, you are treated to some interesting views into what appear to be restaurants, markets, and backyards, or maybe all three at once. But don't be shy about peeking in - you're in good company: if the monks are doing it, it's fine with me!
Weird. Predictably, traffic is horrible. The surprisingly modern subway (2004) and monorail (2009) only cover small parts of the city, with plans to expand delayed indefinitely. Tuk tuks are a cheap touristy way to get around and really get a feel for the city. And by "get a feel for the city", I mean get a view of the wheels of the bus in the next lane, which are about all a tourist taller than 4 foot 8 can see during the trip. It does, however, provide a perfect angle for breathing in the bus exhaust pipe belching fumes into your face. Tourists still seem to use them, though, and we made the best of our Bangkok tuk tuks, though we weren't moving most of the time.
Conversely, here's one of the nicer streets we happened across in Bangkok. 
Anyway, enter the Chao Phraya River, the perfect public transport mode for any century! All you need is something that will float and a way to get it going. (This guy obviously doesn't get it - the boat goes IN the water!)
All along the river, different boats, each about 80 feet long, pull up to floating piers every few minutes and people stream on and off with the same precision as would be expected at Times Square or Grand Central (probably a bit more politeness though). No lights, no brakes, no rails, no "stand clear of the closing doors please." Just a weathered boat driver in the front and a kid in the back. The boat pulls up to the dock and when it gets even, the kid puts a whistle to his lips and blows a certain pitch. Then the driver backs the boat up and the kid jumps off, ropes the boat to the dock, and whistles a different pitch. The driver stops reversing, and passengers file on and off. It all takes about 15 seconds. There is no question that it would take me hours. Here's the number 8-boat pulling up to Tha Tien "station." Mind the gap!
And let's say you don't want to take a long trip down the river, but just want to head across the river to an old temple. Just hop on the wat-ferry of course!
While you're riding, you are treated to some interesting views into what appear to be restaurants, markets, and backyards, or maybe all three at once. But don't be shy about peeking in - you're in good company: if the monks are doing it, it's fine with me!
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